Château Mouton-Rothschild/1st Grand Cru Classé/Pauillac

Dear Pauillac lovers,

Yes, after this great visit we ended-up our tour by one a famous 1st classified growth in Pauillac: Château Mouton-Rotschild.

Back to the legacy of this very well-known and influent family in the Bordeaux scene, this is mainly what you should know:

In 1853, an English member of the Rothschild family, Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild, purchased the property then called Chateau Brane-Mouton and renamed it Chateau Mouton-Rothschild.
In 1922, his great grandson, the legendary Baron Philippe, took its destiny into his own hands, and gave it a new start.
The sixty years of his ownership bear, the stamp of his strong personnality, his entrepreneurial flair and his sens of innovation.
In 1924, he initiated the hitherto unusual practice of bottling all production at the Chateau. This innovation brought with it the need for more storage capacity.
In 1926, he built the famous 100 meter long "Grand Chai".
In 1945, Baron Philippe conceived the original idea of crowning the Mouton label with a work of art created for this purpose by famous artists: Miró, Chagall, Braque, Picasso, Warhol, Bacon, Balthus, among others.
In 1962, he created at Mouton the "Museum of Wine in Art" which displays a priceless collection of art works relating to wine and the vine.

After a twenty-year battle, Baron Philippe obtained a revision of the 1855 Classification and in 1973, Mouton-Rothschild became officially a Premier Cru Classé.
Since her father's death in 1988, Baroness Philippine has assumed control of Mouton-Rothschild, enhancing still further its quality and reputation around the world.

Of course, we have at least to give an overview about this incredible history. During the visit, we went to see every steps of making

We also had these two special moments during this exquisite visit:

First one, when we arrived inside the paradise reserve where they kept a fantastic selection of vintages.

Second one, when we did taste the vintage 2006.
87% Cabernet Sauvignon
13% Merlot

It was really on the fruit, pleasant and very elegant.


We would like to thank you for your warm welcome again.

Cheers!

MFM

Gaja Family Estates

Dear Italian wines defenders,

As some of you probably noticed, I was in Italy this month of January 2008. This time, I took along with me a great translator "Rosella Sabouraud" (below) I couldn't find better tranlastor than a native speaker which is my mother and she is from Torino to meet some differents wineries mostly in the Piedmont region.

In fact, we will focus into one "Gaya". We arrived in the afternoon at Gaya winery in the center of Barbaresco village and Mr.Stefano Canello (Mr. Angelo Gaya relative's, right side) conducted the visit.

Going back to their history, you have to know that Gaja family settled in the piedmont region in the northwest Italy in the mid-seventeenth century. Four generations of Gajas have been producing wines in Piedmoont's Langhe hills since 1859, the year Giovanni Gaja, a local grape grower, founded the Gaja Winery in Barbaresco.

Today, The Gaja winery owns 250 acres of vineyards in the Barbaresco district (Barbaresco and Treiso) and the Barolo district (Serralunga d'Alba and La Morra). In 1988, they acquired a 30 acre vineyard in one of Serralunga's best areas and named it Sperss, which means in Piedmontese for nostalgia. It refers to the Gaja family's nostalgia for the powerful character of Serralinga wines. So, this wine is Langhe Nebbiolo DOC 94% Nebbiolo and 6% Barbera. We are in presence of a deep structure, the nose is pure and very focused fruit with a touch of truffles. Ageing will be 12 months in barriques then 12 months in large Oak casks.
In 1994, the Gayas acquired their first wine estate in Tuscany, Pieve S.Restituta in Montalcino. The property's forty acres of vineyards produce two brunello di Montalcino wines: Sugarille and Rennina.

In 1996, the Gaya family purchased a second property in Tuscany, Ca'Marcanda, located in the bolgheri district in the commune of Castagneto Carducci. New plantings of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon as well as Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Sangiovese cover 250 acres. The wines produced at Ca'Marcanda are Promis, Magari and Camarcanda (below). The 2000 vintage is the first release of each of these wines.


This is wine is Bolgheri DOC, 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. It is very complex and well-structured, nose with rich fruit. Ageing 18 months in new barriques, then at least 12 months of bottle ageing.

We would like to thank you for you warm welcome.
Saluti and Grazie!
MFM

Château d'Issan/3e Grand Cru Classé Margaux

Dear Margaux lovers,

I had the privilege to meet Mr.Emmanuel Cruse owner of Ch. D'Issan (right above), 3rd classified growth in Margaux. Chateau d'Issan is located at the entrance of the village of Cantenac.
In 1945, the Cruse family purchased the property and since then Issan revealed its true potential. Today, the heirs of Emmanuel Sr and Marguerite Cruse run the estate with the true passion and continue to make improvements in both vineyards and the technical aspects of winemaking.

After a wonderful lunch at the chateau, we started our visit through the cellars conducted by Mr.Cruse, himself.

Following vinification, the wines are meticulously tasted and barrels are set aside for blending, one batch at the time.




And so begins the slow ageing of the wine during 18 months in oak barrels.Château D'Issan has become synonymous with the Charm, Suppleness and Finesse which are the hallmarks of its great terroir of 300 acres. This is an authentic Margaux (65% Cabernet-Sauvignon-35% Merlot)

In 1995, a second wine was born Blason d'Issan made from the youngest vines on the property blended with juice from fully mature vines. It will be perfect for those who wants to get a first step in the world of great Margaux.

I would like to thank again Mr.Emmanuel Cruse and his staff for their warm welcome.

Santé!
MFM

A day at the right bank of Bordeaux

Dear Readers,

Wednesday January 16th, a very cold, windy and rainning day in Pomerol estate, we went with Laure Chavaroche (Export manager of H.Cuvelier House) to meet Mr. Nicolas Despagne, one of the owner with Gerard Despagne of Chateau La Rose Figeac and Chateau Hautes Graves Beaulieu.

In the morning, we arrived at Ch. Maison Blanche in Montage Saint-Emilion area where everything takes place after the harvest made by hand every year. As you can see below the vinification is also traditionnal with a control of temperatures which will be about three weeks. (below)


The whole production (13.25 acres) of Ch.La Rose Figeac does age in French oak barrels during 12 to 15 months and for the second wine Ch. Hautes Graves Beaulieu is about 12 months. We ended-up this visit by a tasting of 2004, 2005 and 2006 .

Both wines were very delicate but Ch.Rose Figeac was more complex and well-balanced compared to the second wine.
Don't forget H.Cuvelier & Fils has the exclusivity of Hautes Graves Beaulieu since 2003 vintage.



After, we took the direction to Saint-Emilion estate to visit Ch.Angélus (1st Grand Cru Classé B, St-Emilion) owned by Mr.Hubert de Boüard de Laforest. This mythic and fantastic premium wine is also associated to perfection and tradition because seven generation have been involved and maintained the same style through these years among 58.5 acres of vines.




The wines ageing part is a minimum 20 months but can go 28 months in oak barrels, this will depend on the vintage.


We had the privilege to have the visit done by the headtaster.
Then, we finished by a tasting of 2004 vintage which was a classic with a slight touch of black fruits, moka, liquorice and new french oak. A lot of finesse and a long finish.

He indicated to us this one will be matured between 2010 and 2025 but he insisted as well their wines can be accessible younger and they will still reveal an intense and rich taste of fruit.









Then, following our lunch in Saint-Emilion village we had an appointment with Mr.Francois Despagne, owner of Ch.Grand Corbin-Despagne (St-Emilion Grand Cru). His vineyards are about 66.35 acres and located at the boundaries of St-Emilion estate. Since 1998, there is a second wine called Petit Corbin-Despagne.


Mr. Despagne (below) conducted himself the tasting but he showed us the great cellar behind the tasting room.



















Of course, after viewing those magnificient format and selection of old vintages, we finished our day by the tasting Ch.Grand Corbin-Despagne 2004. For him, the wine is a truly classic with very rich fruity taste but with elegance and finesse.

I would like to thank you all Chateaux owners for their warm welcome and for sharing their passion with us.

Cheers,
MFM

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey/1st Cru in Sauternes

Dear Sauternes connoisseurs,

This premier cru in Sauternes growth used to be part of Cordier negociant, today is owned by Suez group. The vineyards are about 98.80 acres and divided in three parts. The first one is located north of the chateau, second part is very near to the bottom of Chateau Yquem (Premier Cru Superieur) and close to Chateau Suduiraut (Premier Cru) and finally last one is in Bommes area.



This castle is just full of surprise. It has been totally renovated by Suez group for the pleasure of the best customers which have the privilege to stay. (check this typical castle atmosphere in the living room on the left, and special reserve of 1945 Ch.Lafaurie-Peyraguey on the right)













Well, going back to what we're delighted and interested in Ch.Lafaurie-Peyraguey. Mr.Eric Larramona, Director (see picture below) invited me early this month of January to learn more about the extreme and intense work that must be done to be one of the most delicious sauternes of its growth.









After visiting the cellar, Mr. Laramona conducted a remarquable tasting on 3 vintages 2004, 2005 and 2006.

- 2004: Bottled in June 2006, ageing 18 months in a oak cask, is a classic vintage, well-balance less fresh than 2002 but with litlle spices in the mouth.
- 2005: Bottled in June 2007, same ageing, too young, fruity and complex. Comparable to 1997 vintage.
- 2006: will be bottled in June 2008, same ageing, long harvest and hand picked, the nose can already reveal some passion fruit and woody taste.

And, again Eric I would like to thank you for your warm welcome and I would say to our wines lovers: "open your mind to Sauternes region as many times we forget about such jewel excists!!!

MFM

Jean Fillioux Single Cask tasting and Marthe Cognac Discovery

Dear Epicureans,

In December 2007, I finally had a chance to take some time to go back to Jean Fillioux cognac house in Charente county after a long trip in Asia right in the heart of Grande Champagne vineyards.


At the end of the morning, we finished our discussion by a great tasting with Pascal Fillioux (Fourth Generation, see picture below).


We began with Cask N°76 which was in a certain way corresponding to the vintage year 1976. I should say great nose, fine in the mouth and with a very nice finish at the end, a typical Grande Champagne cognac (see below).




Then, just followed by the cask N°70, just to compare if they were any difference noticeable in between two cognacs from the 70's (right side).
Imagine a second, the bottle was n°523 of 540 bottles, you can still tell master blender or head taster is capable to maintain and to reveal the same extreme finesse with a long after-taste to each one.




Well, we just had a wonderful family's lunch with Mrs.Monique Fillioux and their son Christophe. And, early afternoon I had the privelege to taste Cognac Marthe collection(see below) which is also owned by Pascal Fillioux. The history from this cognac, it is a lovely story. But, to make it short the cognac was made for Mrs. Marthe Chevrolet (yes, the famous car dealer Chevrolet) who falled in love with Cognac region end of nineteen century and decided to establish herself with a Fillioux family member.
The range is for connoisseur and for artist because each color will remind you the palette of a painter. The "Aquarelle" XO (average 18 years old, Grande Champagne cognac 100%) in blue on left side, center "Fauve" Extra (average 23 years old, Grande Champagne cognac 100%) and "Sepia" Very Rare (average 30 years old and in limited quantities, Grande Champagne cognac 100%). This cognac is sold to key accounts in duty paid in Europe and in United States and also in some Duty Free chains. You will be very surprised by this quality cognac.

I would like to thank you for your warm welcome and to wish you a Merry Christmas and a Great finish for this end of the year with a glass of Reserve Familiale and a great cuban cigar!

MFM

Back to Michel Couvreur atmosphere in Burgundy/ October 2007

Dear Whisky connoisseurs and friends,

I should say back to Michel Couvreur's land instead of Burgundy region even if Michel Couvreur's house is located not too far from Beaune city.

(above Michel Couvreur and myself just before going down to his cellar)

I had the privilege to visit him a couple days there in mid-October. Mr. Michel Couvreur kindly invited me to stay in his lovely guest house just above the cellars. Do not ask me, but at night is almost a travel to Scotland because all the ingredients are combined to feel it. (see below)
Next day, we made a special selection with Mr.Couvreur for a tasting conducted by Mr.Jean-Arnaud Frantzen(head taster, on the left) and assisted by Mr.Cyril Deschamps (son-in-law of Mr.Michel Couvreur, on the right)

















First, we started with 10 years old "Fleeting Single Cask".
Nose: roasted, vanilla, floral and fresh
Taste: elegant, round and good start with a long finish.
I will definitely recommand this one during Spring season.









Second, it was the "Blossoming auld sherried", 18 years old.
Nose: floral, aromatic and fruity
Taste: old cognac, very long in the mouth and touch of quince at the end.
I will say we are getting to another stratosphere.










Third, extreme and magnificient "For Ever Young Pristine, 35 years old"
Nose: light amber, floral and blond tobacco
Taste: finesse, great finish with a long aftertaste.
I will give one word to this whisky "Quintessence"









I almost forgot during our tasting I did ask to Mr.Couvreur and to Mr.Frantzen if they had something extremely special and unique they never offered to anybody. And, I had the honor to sip from the Cask 69 (April 1969) Malt whisky of 38 years old, (see below). I will keep for me my tasting notes on this one due to its rarety but I would only add it is strickly coming from Mr.Couvreur paradise cellar.




I would like to thank again Mrs. Couvreur and Mr.Couvreur and their team for their always warm welcome.
Cheers in Bouze-les-Beaune!
MFM